Good Morning!
I’ve been natural for a while now and over the last two years I have learned a lot about my hair. I’ve learned how to wash , comb, style and moisturize it. Believe it or not, natural hair maintenance is COMPLETELY different from permed/relaxed hair maintenance. Especially for folks like me who have 4b hair; a courser, coilier hair type. I’ve heard repeatedly that 4b hair is “difficult” or “hard to manage” and I used to believe it back when I had no idea of how to take care of my hair. However, after I took some time to learn how to maintain my hair, I’ve come to realize that my hair isn’t difficult. As a matter of fact, natural hair is quite manageable once you learn How to Work with Your Hair Type. Here is some useful information I’ve gleaned over the years:
Combing natural hair First off, Unlike relaxed/straight hair, natural hair is NOT to be combed from roots to tip. It should be combed from the ends and gradually move down to the roots; This piece of advice is very important because if hair is combed incorrectly, serious breakage will occur. To make matters worst, you’ll inflict unnecessary pain on yourself. Also, NEVER comb your hair when it’s dry! combing dry hair can lead to breakage. It’s vital that you only comb your hair when it’s wet and has conditioner in it. If you need to detangle and you’re not in the process of washing your hair, try using a 50/50 mixture of glycerin and water in a spray bottle to help soften up your hair so the comb ( always use a big tooth comb) can easily slide through your hair.
Moisture is key! since natural hair, 4b especially, tends to break quite easily, moisturizing your hair is vital to hair growth. As the ends of your hair is the oldest part, it needs to be babied in order for it to retain its length. Not every product works for every hair type. However, in my experience, creamy, thick products works best in my hair. Raw Shea butter is a staple in product drawer.
Stay Away from direct heat! I try to stay away from heat as much as possible because too much heat can damage your hair. i.e., If you straighten your hair with a flat iron/ blow dry regularly, you may incur some heat damage that will permanently straighten your hair. This means that when you wash or no-poo, your natural curls will not revert back to its natural state and you’ll have to cut off the damage ends. A good alternative is air-drying. When I wash my hair, I usually plait it in a few braids and leave it to dry. On the few occasions that I do blow dry or straighten my hair, I use a heat protectant and use a low heat setting on my flat iron and/or blow-dryer.
Protective Styling is very important in the retention of your hair length. I try not to leave my hair in an Afro for more than a couple of days because loose hair is more prone to the harsh elements (cold winter winds, snow, hot sun etc). Also, if your hair is in a loose state, it can easily rub against sofas ,the collars of clothing and cause hair breakage. Two strand twists, weaves, braids, are considered protective styling. For more information about protective styling visit http://veneoasis.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/natural-hair-slideshow.pptx for examples.